<h3>What the best card to use with a fuji s700?</h3>
im looking for a 2gb card,fast. i know it takes sd or xd. but im not sure what brands it takes. does it have to be a certain brand. like sandisk, fuji, or kingston.
<strong>Fuji best answer:</strong>
<p><i>Answer by ilikewhiterice002</i><br/>it does not have to be a certain brand, any sd or xd card will work. I wouldn't be too concerned with card speed seeing as how
a. you probably won't notice the difference
b. the s700 is not a DSLR, therefore will not take pictures fast enough to the point that card speed would play a factor.
besides they're more expensive.</p>
<p><strong>Fuji X-Pro 1, Fujinon 35/1.4, Fuji Velvia film mode test</strong>
<img alt="Fuji" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5319/6916070968_62e916dec8.jpg" width="400"/><br/>
<i>Image by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/29953239@N07/6916070968">soelin</a></i>
When my local camera store called me they had a Fuji X-Pro 1 in stock, I decided to sell my Leica M8 to fund the new camera and Fujinon 35/1.4 lens.
Do I regret selling my M8? No. However, I do plan on purchasing the M9 when the prices come down even more. The experience of shooting an autofocus, digitally projected rangefinder lines (Fuji's OVF) does not feel the same as shooting with manual focus rangefinders with RF coupled lenses. Fuji's no replacement for "true" rangefinder cameras.
With the M8, I can be sure about getting good focus—aligned RF focus patch to the subject pretty much ensures my subject will be in focus . Fuji's new hybrid rangefinder still needs some work—especially in the focus department. All the news and reviews you're hearing about focus "issues" are true to some extent. But, in reality, focus on X-Pro 1 is not as horrible or slow as I have been hearing. But, then, I am also using Canon 5D Mark II, not really known for its superb focusing speed. For the type of shooting I do, Fuji's focus is fast, but not accurate when using OVF but on EVF it's good, even in low light. It is slower than the Olympus E-PM1/E-P3, however.
The other issue I read was the aperture blade "chatter." I was able to eliminate the chatter by having the camera set to "power save mode" to "on." Yes, the "chatter" was indeed loud. I thought, at first, it wouldn't matter to me, but it is loud enough to bother me after a while. It seems like it could be fixed via an updated firmware.
The Build.
Compared to the Leica M's, the build seems "cheap(er)." But, if you've never held a Leica, or have not held one for a while, the X-Pro 1's build feels good and quite solid—light, but not too light. If I dropped an M6, I'd be pretty sure it'll still work. I don't have that confidence with X-Pro 1.
It grips better than my M8 which had no grip. Ergonomics are really good. I really enjoy shooting it and carrying it around. Needless to say, it beats carrying a DSLR.
I only have one lens, 35mm/f1.4. It's too bad these lenses are quite expensive. Compared to the solid build of your usual M lenses, this Fujinon lens feels a little hollow, a little plastic. But, in terms of image quality, there's no shortcoming—it is a great lens.
While it's great that the aperture adjustments are on the lens itself, it doesn't stay open at the selected aperture like manual lenses. The aperture blades move to adjust exposure constantly (hence, aperture chatter). Also, the focus ring is too close to the aperture select ring, making it a little hard to mount, dismount the lens without moving the aperture setting unnecessarily.
Image Quality.
I am eagerly awaiting for Adobe RAW converter. I always shoot RAW, and I have tried SilkyPix to process and convert X-Pro 1 RAW files. I just don't like SilkyPix as much as Adobe Raw. So, I've set the camera to "Velvia" film simulation and shot JPEGs. I love "Velvia" simulated colors but it's too contrasty for my taste. I like the contrast of "Provia" simulation but prefer Velvia colors. Oh, well.
Straight out of camera JPEGs seem very sharp—a little too sharp—nothing I couldn't adjust either in camera or in software.
No moire. It's quite amazing.
Chromatic aberrations are inconsistent. I'd take a few shots of a SAME scene. In some pictures, I'd see some CA but in some, I don't. Can't figure out this inconsistency.
ISO.
I have shot up to ISO 6400 (when RAW is selected, it only lets you shoot up to 6400). I am a bit blown away by how clean ISO 6400 (Jpeg) look. Dare I say, "better than 5D Mk2?"
What slow start up time?
I'm using Sandisk Extreme Pro 45MB/sec. Save time is good, wake up time is good, start time time is great.
More to come…</p>
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